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I was delighted to discover that the South Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, roughly ground spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Prepare six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 minutes
Serves a couple

14 ounces firm potatoes, chopped into 1.5-inch chunks
225g paneer, diced into 2cm cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 garlic pieces, prepared and minced
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
40ml mild oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then pour off the liquid and let them dry from steam for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for a short while, then drain and pat dry.

Tip the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then crush or grind to a rough rubble.

Transfer to a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then carefully mix in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Thread the components on to the prepared skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and set aside until needed – if desired, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Beat all the ingredients for the dressing in a container. Heat the grill to its highest setting, then bake the sticks for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, scattered with a little more salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.